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TÉMA: Dr. Elaine Ingham - Soil food web

Dr. Elaine Ingham - Soil food web 10 éve 3 hónapja #9492

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Dr. Elaine Ingham beküldte:
Organic matter decomposes too fast in hot, sandy soil when solar radiation is intense enough to break the residues down, with the help of a massive population of bacteria. To protect against solar radiation causing trouble, make sure to lightly rake the residues into the soil, and apply a really good inoculum of beneficial fungi (i.e., aerobic compost or extract) so those residues become soil organism matter, and don't just blow off as CO2.

What factors are increasing volatilization losses in general when we work with compost, manure, mulch?

Which is the best way to store cow manure (until building a compost pile) without volatilization losses or anaerob decomposition?
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Dr. Elaine Ingham - Soil food web 10 éve 3 hónapja #9493

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Dear Elaine !

A few weeks ago I planted some fruit trees on my grassland . I put to the roots some special tablets . This tablets contain 2 mycorrhisal fungi and 1 bacteria. (glomus spp. , trichoderma atroviride, the name of the bacteria isn!t signed), the product official name is CLICK COMPRESSED BIOSSTIMULANT.
You wrote before that for the healthy soil we need plenty of bacteria and fungi. So my question is that this product containing just a few integrants could be useful or not?
My other question is, that this root fungi could be useful to the soil in the neighbourhood of the roots?.

Thank you for your help!
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Dr. Elaine Ingham - Soil food web 10 éve 3 hónapja #9495

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Dr. Elaine Ingham beküldte:
Reply to #9435
In our area we have sandy soil. If we get 1-3 mm rain the soil behaves like a "water repellent sandy soil": the water stays on the surface and evaporates without penetrating deeper. However when we get about 10-15 mm or more rain the soil behaves like a "non wetting sandy soil" and in about 4-5 days the upper 5-8 cm dries out. We try to grow grains, like triticale and sunflower. Last year we harvested 2 tons/ha wheat in average with 70 kg Nitrogen input. I think the biggest problem is the water.
My soil looks like this (except the color, mine is light brown not red): www.grdc.com.au/Research-and-Development...-on-soil-constraints
What is your advise how can I achieve bigger yields?
How much organic matter is in the soil? How do you manage your residues? How rapidly do they decompose on the soil surface? Or do you till those residues into the soil? Once tilled in, how fast do they decompose?
Is there a compaction layer in your soil? Is it compaction at some depth in the soil horizon that is causing water to puddle at the soil surface? Or is the soil structure so collapsed that water cannot infiltrate into the soil any distance? Does a salt layer form at the surface of the soil? What time, or what part of the year does that occur? Do you irrigate?

For water to infiltrate into the soil, there needs to be openings on the soil surface that break the water tension of the water lying on the surface. Thus, poor infiltration of water means no soil structure.
So, I await your responses before proceeding further.

I would like to give additional information on behalf of Norbert, since I know a bit of his dirt.
His farm lies in the middle of the arid flatland of Hungary, with less than 3oo mm precipitation and prone to frequent drought. The upper 5o-6o cm of soil is pure sand, below one should find almost pure clay with saline tendency (salt steppe)
The dirt has minimum amount of organic matter caused by intensive agriculture and total deforestation. The sand behaves like it was treated with wax, few mm rain runs into solid droplets on the surface, a bit more water infiltrates adequately without puddle, however it will dry out very quickly.
The vegetation is scarce, decomposition is slow, soil biology should be assessed soon, however I do not expect any diversity following decades of worst chemical agriculture.

The first ideas were for the quick start to make a good compost and inoculate the seeds with compost tea, whatever cash-crop he would like to grow next year. Then accumulate as many residue he should on the surface to protect it from the sun creating a better micro climate and to feed the microorganism. It would be important to keep the roots intact and do not plow under the residues as it is an usual habit of the farmers.
He is in the progress to build a small scale direct drill based on my plans to reduce the movements on the land too.
Using this method I expect the increase of organic matter and microorganisms that should fix all of the problems.
Nem az a beteg, aki nem alkalmazkodik egy abnormális világhoz.
Utolsó szerkesztés: 10 éve 3 hónapja Beküldte: AttilaK.
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Dr. Elaine Ingham - Soil food web 10 éve 3 hónapja #9500

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Reply to #9434 with help with the translation.....
He's asking about the differences between thermal and worm composting end product quality.
Both thermal and worm compost can have extremely beneficial organisms in the end product. Maximize diversity of organic matter to start, make sure a good set of organisms go into the pile, make sure to keep either type of compost aerobic during and after the composting process, and both compost types can end up excellent.

I don't really differentiate between thermal and worm compost ...... both can be just as good as the other.

Thermal composting requires RAPID growth of bacteria and fungi to generate the heat needed to raise the temperature to kill weed seeds, pathogens, pests, etc. The trick is to get that rapid growth, but to not have the pile become anaerobic.

Worm composting requires passage of the organic matter through the digestive system of the worm, or contact with the body of the worm. Weed seeds cannot be killed by worms (too big to fit in the mouth), so weed seeds should be killed by high temperatures before putting the material in the worm bin.

Both types of compost have extremely beneficial soil food webs; Use the production method that fits your life style best. Do the composting method that is easiest for you.
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Dr. Elaine Ingham - Soil food web 10 éve 3 hónapja #9503

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Picture 1. #9473

Hehe, microscopes as toys! Best Christmas present ever!!! I'll go through each picture you sent. The first picture was of a fungal hypha. Fungi are by definition uniform diameter all the way along the hyphal strand. The branches my be different diameter. Beneficial fungi are typically wider than3 micrometers in diameter, and colored. Brown, black, red, golden, yellow, pink, ..... any color is good. The"bad guys" are colorless, clear, and narrow diameter ---- diameter around 2.0 micrometers. Typically these are the "oomycetes", the group of fungi that contain the largest percent of species of disease fungi. We can't be absolutely sure that narrow diameter, clear fungi are bad, but the probability is high that they are bad, from the point of view of growing plants.

A couple questions though in your preparation..... you might want to find the The Earth Source and the you tube video of doing the counts andsuch. Also lots of pictures of critters.

First, what magnification were you using? Please do not use higher than 400 X total magnification (40X objective and10 X eye pieces = 400X total magnification). The fungal picture you sent (Picture 1) looks like you tried the 100X objective, and everything is too blurry.

If in fact that was 400X total magnification, then you need to focus the condensor again, and work on using the iris diaphragm to get everything to become shadowed, thus improving contrast so you can see everything more sharply.

With these microscopes, the field (what you see when you look through the microscope) diameter is 450 micrometers. Think of one strand of fungus as being the whole length of that 450 um field. The bit of fungal strand you are seeing in the picture is much less than the full field, so what amount of the full width do you estimate that bit to be? I'd suspect 0.1 of a full field.

Now, determine diameter of that fungal piece. first, find the smallest bacterium you canfind in your picture (you are going to have to focus the condensor, shadow using the iris diaphragm and get the bacteria to become see-able to do this).

How wide is the fungal hyphae? Howmany1 um bacteria could you put side-by-side across that fungal hyphae? So, now you know diameter of that fungus. Pretty good diameter, right?

Is that fungus clear? Or colored? Yep, light brown. So, colored.

Conclusion: Beneficial or bad? Easy to tell, right?

Now, try to find a strand that is only as wide as a single bacterium.....fungi can't be that narrow. So it is not a fungus..... what is it?

Actinobacterium.

Find a stiff, short, narrow1 um organism. Lactobacillus, a bacterium which is a "good guy" in many circumstances.

Go to Nature Technologies International..... get the book that goes through the different pictures, sizes and shapes of organisms. Carol Ann Rollins helped me put that book together, and you can buy it from her company. I think you can get it on Amazon.com too.

now, on to your other pictures.......
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Dr. Elaine Ingham - Soil food web 10 éve 3 hónapja #9504

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Reply #9473 - Next pictures

The spiky network is crystalline material of some kind, I think, as long as t his is 400X total magnification. So, not an organism .

Next picture....the bulbous dark thing...... again, assuming a 400X total magnification, this is a sand grain covered with organic matter, which bacteria are gluing to the surface to the mineral particle. It would be clearer if you focus the condensor, and use the iris diaphragm to shadow the bacteria so you can see them.

Both of the next pictures need that same effort. Can't see all the bacteria clearly. The circular things just a little left of center in the fourth picture are protozoan cysts. These specifically are flagellate cysts (good guys), because once they excyst and return to active phase, they eat bacteria. Because bacteria use their enzymes to pull mineral nutrients from the mineral parts of soil and from organic matter, bacteria are very high in all mineral elements. When protozoa eat bacteria, the concentration of all those nutrients in the bacteria are too great for the protozoan, and the protozoan.... in this case the flagellates - release the excess mineral nutrients as plant-available, soluble nutrients.

Viola! No need for inorganic fertilizers, because normal nutrient cycling has occurred.

The last picture...... the sample is drying out. Add more water, or clean the slide up and make another one. The material in the picture just looks like decomposing organic matter
Utolsó szerkesztés: 10 éve 3 hónapja Beküldte: Dr. Elaine Ingham. Indoklás: Added more info about the final two pictures
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